planning

By Tom Ashworth, Regional Market Analyst · Former EST home energy advisor — Last reviewed

Heat Pump EPC Requirements: No Minimum Rating Needed for £7,

First published

TL;DR

  • No minimum EPC rating is required to claim the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) grant for a heat pump.
  • You must have a valid EPC (issued within the last 10 years) to apply, but it can be rated anywhere from A to G.
  • A good EPC rating (C or above) is still important for low running costs and heat pump efficiency, even if not for the grant.
  • Installing a heat pump can sometimes lower your EPC rating due to outdated SAP methodology, which penalises electricity costs.
  • Check your EPC for free at GOV.UK and use our home suitability check to prepare for installation.

In 2024, nearly 14 million UK homes still rely on gas boilers, but with the government’s target to install 600,000 heat pumps per year by 2028, many homeowners are considering the switch. If you’re one of them, you’ve likely heard conflicting advice about Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs) and heat pumps. Some sources claim you need a minimum EPC rating to qualify for the £7,500 grant, while others suggest your home’s energy efficiency doesn’t matter at all. The truth? There is no minimum EPC rating required for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) grant-but that doesn’t mean your EPC is irrelevant.

This guide cuts through the confusion. We’ll explain exactly what the BUS requires, why your EPC still matters for heat pump performance, and how to prepare your home for a smooth, cost-effective installation. Whether your property is rated A or G, you’ll learn how to navigate the rules, avoid common pitfalls, and make the most of your heat pump investment.

Table of Contents

Myth Buster: Is There a Minimum EPC Rating for a Heat Pump Grant?

Let’s start with the most persistent myth: You need a minimum EPC rating to qualify for a heat pump grant. This is false. The Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS), which offers £7,500 towards the cost of an air source or ground source heat pump, does not require your home to meet any specific energy efficiency standard. Your property can be rated A, B, C, D, E, F, or even G-as long as you have a valid EPC, you’re eligible.

Where Did the Confusion Come From?

The myth likely stems from three sources:

  1. Outdated rules: Until May 2024, the BUS required homeowners to address any loft or cavity wall insulation recommendations listed on their EPC before applying. This rule was removed to simplify the process, but many older guides still reference it.
  2. Other schemes: Some energy efficiency programmes, like the Energy Company Obligation (ECO4), do require a minimum EPC rating (usually D or above) for certain measures. This has led to confusion between schemes.
  3. Installer advice: Some installers may recommend improving your EPC rating before installing a heat pump-not because it’s required for the grant, but because it improves efficiency and reduces running costs. This well-intentioned advice is often misinterpreted as a grant requirement.

What the Government Says

The official GOV.UK guidance is clear:

“Your property must have a valid Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) issued within the last 10 years. There are no other energy efficiency requirements for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme.”

Similarly, Ofgem, which administers the scheme, states:

“You do not need to meet any minimum energy efficiency standards to apply for the BUS.”

Why This Matters

This rule change is a game-changer for homeowners in older or less efficient properties. Previously, if your EPC recommended insulation, you’d need to spend hundreds or even thousands of pounds to address it before qualifying for the grant. Now, you can proceed with a heat pump installation without delay, even if your home is poorly insulated. However, as we’ll explore later, this doesn’t mean you should ignore your EPC entirely.

The Real EPC Rule: What the Boiler Upgrade Scheme Actually Requires

While there’s no minimum EPC rating, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) does impose two key EPC-related requirements. Here’s what you need to know to ensure your application is successful.

1. You Must Have a Valid EPC

Your property must have an Energy Performance Certificate issued within the last 10 years. If your EPC has expired or you’ve never had one, you’ll need to arrange an assessment before applying for the grant. The good news? EPCs are relatively inexpensive (typically £60-£120) and can be arranged through accredited assessors via the GOV.UK EPC register.

What If My EPC Is Expired or Missing?

  • If your EPC is older than 10 years, you’ll need a new assessment. This is a quick process-most assessors can visit your home within a week.
  • If you’ve never had an EPC, you’ll need to book one. This is common for older properties or those that have never been sold or rented.
  • If you’ve made energy efficiency improvements since your last EPC (e.g., added insulation, upgraded windows), it’s worth getting a new assessment. A higher rating could improve your heat pump’s performance, even if it’s not required for the grant.

2. The EPC Must Not Have Unresolved Loft or Cavity Wall Insulation Recommendations (Pre-May 2024 Rule)

Here’s where things get slightly more complicated. Before May 2024, the BUS required homeowners to address any loft or cavity wall insulation recommendations listed on their EPC before applying. This rule was removed to streamline the process, but some installers may still ask about it. Here’s what you need to know:

  • If your EPC was issued before May 2024 and includes insulation recommendations, you do not need to address them to qualify for the grant.
  • If your EPC was issued after May 2024, it will not include insulation recommendations as a barrier to the BUS. However, the recommendations may still appear on the certificate as suggestions for improving energy efficiency.

Why Was This Rule Removed?

The government removed the insulation requirement to speed up heat pump installations and reduce barriers for homeowners. The logic was that:

  • Heat pumps are most efficient in well-insulated homes, but they can still work in less efficient properties.
  • Requiring insulation first could delay installations and discourage homeowners from making the switch.
  • The focus should be on decarbonising heating, even if it means accepting slightly higher running costs in the short term.

What If My EPC Recommends Other Improvements?

Your EPC may list other recommendations, such as:

  • Upgrading to double or triple glazing
  • Adding solid wall insulation
  • Installing a more efficient boiler
  • Improving ventilation

None of these affect your BUS eligibility. The scheme only cares about the existence of a valid EPC, not its recommendations. However, as we’ll discuss in the next section, addressing these recommendations can significantly improve your heat pump’s performance and reduce running costs.

Why a Good EPC Rating Still Matters for Your Heat Pump’s Performance

While the Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) doesn’t require a minimum EPC rating, your home’s energy efficiency plays a huge role in how well your heat pump performs. A poorly insulated property with a low EPC rating (D or below) can lead to:

  • Higher running costs: Heat pumps are highly efficient, but they work best in well-insulated homes. In a draughty property, your system may need to work harder to maintain a comfortable temperature, increasing electricity usage.
  • Longer payback periods: The savings from a heat pump are greatest when your home retains heat effectively. In a poorly insulated home, the financial benefits may take longer to materialise.
  • Potential comfort issues: Heat pumps deliver heat at lower temperatures than gas boilers. In a cold, poorly insulated home, you might find it harder to reach your desired temperature, especially in very cold weather.

How EPC Ratings Affect Heat Pump Efficiency

Your EPC rating is calculated using the Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP), which evaluates your home’s energy performance based on factors like:

  • Insulation levels (loft, walls, floors)
  • Heating system efficiency
  • Windows and doors (draught-proofing, glazing)
  • Renewable energy sources (e.g., solar panels)

Here’s how different EPC ratings typically impact heat pump performance:

EPC RatingBandTypical Heat Pump PerformanceEstimated Annual Running Costs (3-bed semi)*
A (92-100)Very efficientExcellent. Heat pump operates at peak efficiency, with minimal heat loss.£500-£700
B (81-91)EfficientVery good. Heat pump performs well, with low running costs.£600-£800
C (69-80)AverageGood. Heat pump is efficient, but some heat loss may occur in colder weather.£700-£900
D (55-68)Below averageModerate. Heat pump may struggle in very cold weather, leading to higher running costs.£800-£1,100
E (39-54)PoorPoor. Heat pump will work, but running costs will be high, and comfort may be compromised.£1,000-£1,300
F (21-38)Very poorVery poor. Heat pump may not be cost-effective without significant insulation improvements.£1,200-£1,500
G (1-20)Extremely poorNot recommended. Heat pump will be inefficient, with very high running costs and comfort issues.£1,400+

*Estimates are based on a 3-bedroom semi-detached home with a 12 kW air source heat pump, using the Energy Saving Trust’s running cost calculator and assuming an electricity price of 28p/kWh (as of 2024). Actual costs will vary depending on property size, insulation, and usage.

The Fabric-First Approach: Why Insulation Comes First

If your EPC rating is D or below, it’s worth considering insulation improvements before installing a heat pump. This is known as the fabric-first approach, and it’s the most effective way to maximise your heat pump’s efficiency. Here’s why:

  1. Lower running costs: Insulation reduces heat loss, meaning your heat pump won’t need to work as hard to maintain a comfortable temperature.
  2. Better comfort: A well-insulated home retains heat more effectively, reducing cold spots and draughts.
  3. Future-proofing: Improving your EPC rating now could make your home more attractive to buyers or tenants in the future, especially as energy efficiency standards tighten.

Key Insulation Improvements to Consider

ImprovementTypical CostPotential EPC BoostEstimated Annual Savings (3-bed semi)
Loft insulation (270mm)£300-£600+5-10 points£150-£250
Cavity wall insulation£500-£1,500+5-15 points£200-£350
Solid wall insulation£8,000-£20,000+15-30 points£300-£500
Double glazing (whole house)£5,000-£10,000+5-10 points£100-£200
Draught-proofing£100-£300+2-5 points£50-£100

*Costs and savings are estimates based on Energy Saving Trust data. Actual costs will vary depending on property size and location.

Can You Get Help with Insulation Costs?

Yes! Several schemes can help cover the cost of insulation improvements:

  • Energy Company Obligation (ECO4): Offers free or subsidised insulation for low-income households. Check your eligibility here.
  • Great British Insulation Scheme: Provides funding for loft and cavity wall insulation. More details here.
  • Local authority grants: Some councils offer additional support for energy efficiency improvements. Check your local council’s website for details.

The EPC Paradox: Could a New Heat Pump Lower Your Home’s Rating?

Here’s a counterintuitive truth: Installing a heat pump can sometimes lower your EPC rating, even though it’s a more efficient and environmentally friendly heating system. This is known as the EPC paradox, and it’s a source of frustration for many homeowners. Here’s why it happens and what you can do about it.

Why Does This Happen?

The EPC rating system uses the Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP), which was designed in the 1990s and has not kept pace with modern heating technologies. SAP calculates your home’s energy efficiency based on:

  1. Fuel costs: Electricity is currently more expensive per kWh than gas, so SAP penalises electric heating systems, including heat pumps.
  2. Carbon emissions: While heat pumps produce far fewer emissions than gas boilers, SAP still treats them as less efficient because of their reliance on electricity.
  3. System efficiency: SAP assumes a fixed efficiency for heat pumps (around 250-300%), but in reality, modern heat pumps can achieve efficiencies of 300-400% or higher. This discrepancy means SAP underestimates their performance.

Example: How a Heat Pump Can Lower Your EPC Rating

Let’s say your home currently has:

  • A gas boiler with an efficiency of 85%.
  • An EPC rating of D (60).

If you replace the gas boiler with a high-efficiency air source heat pump (350% efficiency), SAP might calculate your new EPC rating as C (55)-a drop of 5 points. This happens because:

  • SAP assumes the heat pump uses more expensive electricity, increasing your fuel costs.
  • The system doesn’t fully account for the heat pump’s superior efficiency in real-world conditions.

Is This Fair?

No-and many industry experts agree. The Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) and organisations like the Energy Saving Trust have called for SAP to be updated to better reflect the efficiency of heat pumps. However, until these changes are made, the EPC paradox remains a reality for homeowners.

What Can You Do About It?

If your EPC rating drops after installing a heat pump, don’t panic. Here’s what you can do:

  1. Focus on real-world performance: Your EPC rating is just a theoretical calculation. In practice, your heat pump will likely save you money compared to a gas boiler, especially as electricity prices fall relative to gas.
  2. Improve your home’s fabric: As we discussed earlier, insulation and draught-proofing can offset the EPC penalty by reducing heat loss. This will improve your rating and lower your running costs.
  3. Consider solar panels: Adding solar PV can boost your EPC rating by reducing your reliance on grid electricity. This can help counteract the SAP penalty for electric heating.
  4. Wait for SAP updates: The government is reviewing the SAP methodology, and future updates may better reflect heat pump efficiency. Keep an eye on announcements from the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero.

Illustrative Composite Based on Typical UK Installations

Meet Sarah, a homeowner in Manchester with a 3-bedroom semi-detached house built in the 1930s. Her home has:

  • An EPC rating of D (58).
  • A 20-year-old gas boiler with an efficiency of 75%.
  • Some loft insulation but no cavity wall insulation.

Sarah decides to install an air source heat pump with the £7,500 BUS grant. After installation:

  • Her new EPC rating drops to C (55) due to the SAP penalty for electric heating.
  • However, her annual heating costs fall from £1,200 to £800-a saving of £400 per year.
  • She also adds cavity wall insulation (costing £1,200), which boosts her EPC rating to B (82) and reduces her running costs to £600 per year.

Despite the initial EPC drop, Sarah’s heat pump is cheaper to run and her home is more comfortable and energy-efficient in the long term.

How to Check Your EPC and Prepare Your Home for a Heat Pump

Now that you understand the role of your EPC in heat pump eligibility and performance, it’s time to take action. Here’s a step-by-step guide to checking your EPC, assessing your home’s suitability, and preparing for installation.

Step 1: Find Your EPC

You can check your home’s EPC for free using the GOV.UK EPC register. Here’s how:

  1. Enter your postcode and select your address from the list.
  2. Click on your property to view your current EPC.
  3. If your EPC is older than 10 years or you’ve never had one, you’ll need to arrange a new assessment. You can find an accredited assessor here.

What to Look for on Your EPC

When reviewing your EPC, pay attention to:

  • Your current rating (A-G): This gives you an idea of your home’s energy efficiency.
  • Recommendations for improvement: These are listed in order of priority and include estimated costs and savings.
  • Heating system details: This shows your current boiler’s efficiency and whether it’s suitable for replacement.
  • Insulation levels: This indicates whether your loft, walls, and floors are adequately insulated.

Step 2: Assess Your Home’s Suitability for a Heat Pump

Not all homes are equally suited to heat pumps. Use our home suitability check to get a personalised assessment, but here are the key factors to consider:

1. Insulation

  • Loft insulation: Should be at least 270mm thick for optimal performance.
  • Wall insulation: Cavity walls should be filled, and solid walls should be insulated (internally or externally).
  • Floor insulation: Suspended timber floors can be insulated from below, while solid floors may require insulation on top.

2. Heating System

  • Radiators: Heat pumps work best with low-temperature radiators or underfloor heating. If your radiators are small or old, you may need to upgrade them.
  • Pipework: Your existing pipework should be in good condition and suitably sized for a heat pump.
  • Hot water cylinder: Heat pumps require a hot water cylinder (unless you opt for a hybrid system). If you don’t have one, you’ll need to install one.

3. Space

  • Outdoor unit: Air source heat pumps require space outside for the outdoor unit (typically the size of a large suitcase). Ground source heat pumps need a garden or land for ground loops or boreholes.
  • Indoor unit: You’ll need space for the indoor unit (similar to a large fridge) and, if required, a hot water cylinder.

4. Electrical Supply

  • Heat pumps require a dedicated electrical circuit and may need an upgraded fuse box (e.g., from 60A to 100A). Your installer will assess this during the survey.

Step 3: Get a Professional Survey

Before installing a heat pump, you’ll need a detailed survey from a Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) accredited installer. This survey will:

  • Assess your home’s heat loss and insulation levels.
  • Determine the correct size for your heat pump.
  • Identify any upgrades needed (e.g., radiators, pipework, electrical supply).
  • Provide a detailed quote for the installation.

You can find an MCS-accredited installer using the MCS installer directory.

Step 4: Address Any Recommendations

If your survey identifies any issues (e.g., poor insulation, undersized radiators), address them before or during the heat pump installation. This will ensure your system performs optimally and delivers the lowest possible running costs.

Common Upgrades and Their Costs

UpgradeTypical CostNotes
Loft insulation top-up£300-£600Can often be done as a DIY project.
Cavity wall insulation£500-£1,500Requires professional installation.
Radiator upgrades£500-£2,000Cost depends on the number of radiators and their size.
Underfloor heating£2,000-£5,000More expensive but highly efficient with heat pumps.
Hot water cylinder£800-£1,500Required for most heat pump installations.
Electrical supply upgrade£500-£1,500May be needed if your fuse box is outdated.

Step 5: Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme Grant

Once you’ve chosen an installer and received a quote, your installer will apply for the BUS grant on your behalf. Here’s what you need to know:

  • The grant covers £7,500 for air source and ground source heat pumps.
  • You do not need to pay the grant upfront-it’s deducted from your installation cost.
  • Your installer must be MCS-accredited and registered with the BUS.
  • The grant is not means-tested, so it’s available to all eligible homeowners.

For more details, visit our £7,500 grant guide.

The Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) is just one of several schemes that use EPC ratings to determine eligibility. If you’re planning to install a heat pump, it’s worth considering how your EPC rating might affect other opportunities, both now and in the future.

1. Energy Company Obligation (ECO4)

The ECO4 scheme provides free or subsidised energy efficiency improvements for low-income households. Unlike the BUS, ECO4 does require a minimum EPC rating for certain measures. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Eligibility: You must be in receipt of certain benefits (e.g., Universal Credit, Pension Credit) or live in a low-income household.
  • EPC requirements:
    • For insulation measures (e.g., loft, cavity wall, solid wall), your home must have an EPC rating of D or below.
    • For heating measures (e.g., heat pumps), your home must have an EPC rating of E or below.
  • How to apply: Contact your energy supplier or visit the GOV.UK ECO4 page.

FAQ

What EPC rating do you need for a heat pump grant?

For the £7,500 Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) grant, there is no minimum EPC rating required. Your property can be rated anywhere from A to G, as long as you have a valid EPC issued within the last 10 years. This is a key difference from other schemes, like ECO4, which do impose minimum EPC requirements for certain measures. The BUS focuses on decarbonising heating rather than energy efficiency, so even poorly insulated homes can qualify. However, as we’ve discussed, a higher EPC rating (C or above) will improve your heat pump’s performance and reduce running costs.

Can I get a heat pump with an EPC rating of F or G?

Yes, you can install a heat pump in a home with an EPC rating of F or G, and you’ll still qualify for the £7,500 BUS grant. However, there are some important considerations:

  1. Running costs: Heat pumps are less efficient in poorly insulated homes, so your running costs may be higher than in a better-insulated property. For example, a 3-bedroom semi-detached home with an EPC rating of G could cost £1,400 or more per year to heat with a heat pump, compared to £600-£800 in a home rated C or above.
  2. Comfort: Heat pumps deliver heat at lower temperatures than gas boilers. In a very cold, poorly insulated home, you might struggle to maintain a comfortable temperature, especially during winter.
  3. Future-proofing: If you’re planning to sell or rent your home in the future, a low EPC rating could reduce its value or limit your options. Landlords, for example, cannot let properties with an EPC rating below E under the Minimum Energy Efficiency Standards (MEES).

If your home is rated F or G, it’s worth improving your insulation before or during the heat pump installation. This will lower your running costs and make your home more comfortable. You can use our home suitability check to assess what improvements might be needed.

Why does my EPC rating matter if there’s no minimum for the grant?

While the BUS grant doesn’t require a minimum EPC rating, your home’s energy efficiency still matters for three key reasons:

  1. Running costs: A heat pump is most efficient in a well-insulated home. In a property with a low EPC rating (D or below), your system may need to work harder to maintain a comfortable temperature, increasing electricity usage and running costs. For example, a home rated D could cost £300-£500 more per year to heat with a heat pump than a home rated C.
  2. Performance: Heat pumps deliver heat at lower temperatures than gas boilers. In a poorly insulated home, you might find it harder to reach your desired temperature, especially in very cold weather. This can lead to comfort issues and the need for supplementary heating.
  3. Future-proofing: Energy efficiency standards are tightening. For example:
    • Landlords cannot let properties with an EPC rating below E under the Minimum Energy Efficiency Standards (MEES).
    • The government is considering raising the minimum EPC rating for rented properties to C by 2028.
    • Future iterations of the BUS or other schemes may introduce minimum EPC requirements.

Improving your EPC rating now can save you money, improve comfort, and future-proof your home. Use our running costs comparison to see how your EPC rating could affect your heat pump’s performance.

How can I improve my EPC rating before installing a heat pump?

Improving your EPC rating is one of the best ways to maximise your heat pump’s efficiency and reduce running costs. Here are the most effective upgrades, ranked by cost and impact:

1. Loft Insulation

  • Cost: £300-£600
  • EPC boost: +5-10 points
  • Annual savings: £150-£250
  • Notes: Loft insulation is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to improve your EPC rating. Aim for at least 270mm of insulation (or 300mm for newer homes). This can often be done as a DIY project if your loft is easily accessible.

2. Cavity Wall Insulation

  • Cost: £500-£1,500
  • EPC boost: +5-15 points
  • Annual savings: £200-£350
  • Notes: Cavity wall insulation is highly effective for homes built after the 1920s (which have cavity walls). It’s a quick process (usually completed in a day) and can significantly reduce heat loss. Check if your home is suitable using the Energy Saving Trust’s cavity wall insulation guide.

3. Draught-Proofing

  • Cost: £100-£300
  • EPC boost: +2-5 points
  • Annual savings: £50-£100
  • Notes: Draught-proofing is a low-cost, high-impact improvement. Focus on windows, doors, floorboards, and chimneys. Use draught excluders, sealant, and brush strips to block gaps. This is another project you can often do yourself.

4. Double Glazing

  • Cost: £5,000-£10,000 (whole house)
  • EPC boost: +5-10 points
  • Annual savings: £100-£200
  • Notes: Double glazing is expensive but effective for reducing heat loss and noise. If your budget is limited, prioritise windows in living rooms and bedrooms. Look for A-rated or higher glazing for the best performance.

5. Solid Wall Insulation

  • Cost: £8,000-£20,000
  • EPC boost: +15-30 points
  • Annual savings: £300-£500
  • Notes: Solid wall insulation is one of the most expensive upgrades, but it can dramatically improve your EPC rating for older homes (pre-1920s). It can be applied internally or externally, depending on your property. External insulation is more expensive but less disruptive.

6. Solar Panels

  • Cost: £5,000-£10,000
  • EPC boost: +5-15 points
  • Annual savings: £200-£500
  • Notes: Solar panels can boost your EPC rating by reducing your reliance on grid electricity. They’re particularly effective if you’re installing a heat pump, as they can power your system during the day. Use our savings calculator to see how solar panels could affect your running costs.

Funding for Improvements

If the cost of upgrades is a concern, several schemes can help:

  • Energy Company Obligation (ECO4): Offers free or subsidised insulation for low-income households. Check your eligibility here.
  • Great British Insulation Scheme: Provides funding for loft and cavity wall insulation. More details here.
  • Local authority grants: Some councils offer additional support for energy efficiency improvements. Check your local council’s website for details.

Will installing a heat pump improve my EPC rating?

Installing a heat pump can improve your EPC rating, but it’s not guaranteed. In fact, as we discussed earlier, it can sometimes lower your rating due to the outdated SAP methodology, which penalises electric heating. Here’s what you need to know:

When a Heat Pump Will Improve Your EPC Rating

Your EPC rating is more likely to improve if:

  1. You’re replacing an old, inefficient boiler (e.g., a non-condensing boiler with an efficiency below 70%).
  2. Your home is well-insulated, so the heat pump can operate at peak efficiency.
  3. You’re installing a high-efficiency heat pump (e.g., a modern air source or ground source model with a Seasonal Coefficient of Performance (SCOP) of 3.5 or higher).
  4. You’re also making other energy efficiency improvements, such as adding insulation or solar panels.

When a Heat Pump Might Lower Your EPC Rating

Your EPC rating is more likely to drop if:

  1. You’re replacing a relatively new, efficient gas boiler (e.g., a condensing boiler with an efficiency of 90% or higher).
  2. Your home is poorly insulated, so the heat pump struggles to maintain efficiency.
  3. The SAP methodology underestimates your heat pump’s efficiency (e.g., if your system has a SCOP of 4.0 but SAP assumes 2.5).
  4. You’re not making other energy efficiency improvements alongside the heat pump.

How to Ensure Your Heat Pump Improves Your EPC Rating

If you want to maximise the chances of your heat pump improving your EPC rating, follow these steps:

  1. Improve your home’s insulation before or during the installation. Focus on loft, walls, and draught-proofing to reduce heat loss.
  2. Choose a high-efficiency heat pump. Look for models with a SCOP of 3.5 or higher and ensure your installer is MCS-accredited.
  3. Consider adding solar panels. Solar PV can boost your EPC rating by reducing your reliance on grid electricity.
  4. Get a new EPC after installation. If you’ve made improvements, a new assessment could reflect a higher rating.

Example: How a Heat Pump Can Affect Your EPC Rating

Let’s compare two scenarios for a 3-bedroom semi-detached home:

ScenarioBefore Heat PumpAfter Heat PumpEPC Change
Old gas boiler (65% efficiency)D (58)C (72)+14 points
New gas boiler (92% efficiency)C (70)C (65)-5 points

In the first scenario, replacing an old, inefficient boiler with a heat pump improves the EPC rating by 14 points. In the second scenario, replacing a new, efficient boiler with a heat pump lowers the EPC rating by 5 points due to the SAP penalty for electric heating.

Sources